“Many
of the ingredients used in cosmetics are toxic, even though they may not cause
any reactions on the skin. Some even
cause cancer. Some of the most commonly
used ingredients combine with other ingredients to form cancer-causing
substances. From 1978 to 1980, the FDA
analyzed 300 cosmetic samples for carcinogenic contamination. 40% of the samples analyzed contained
carcinogens. In 1991-92, they found
that 65% of the cosmetic products sampled contained carcinogenic
contaminants.
The
cosmetics industry is very poorly regulated.
The Federal Food, Drug and Cosmetic (FD&C) Act does not require
cosmetics or their ingredients to be approved before they are marketed and sold
to consumers. FDA regulation starts
after they are already in the marketplace.
So, except for color additives and a few ingredients that are banned,
manufacturers may use whatever ingredients they choose in the cosmetics they
produce without approval from the FDA.
The
FDA can make suggestions or recommendations to manufacturers about cosmetic
products or their ingredients, but the manufacturers do not have to
comply. The FDA must first prove in a
court of law that a product is harmful, improperly labeled, or violates the
law, if it wants to remove a cosmetic product from the market.
The
Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association (CTFA) International Buyers’ Guide
1999 lists 25,854 cosmetic chemicals from which manufacturers can choose for
the cosmetics they produce. Most of the
chemicals have not been tested for short-term or long-term toxic effects or for
systemic effects. Many are contaminated
with toxic by-products from manufacturing.
Many are toxic themselves.
The
Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR), established in 1976 by CTFA, was an industry
effort to provide an unbiased evaluation of the safety of cosmetic
ingredients. Between 1976 and June 28,
2000, they completed safety assessments, on a priority basis, for 1018
ingredients. This represents only 3.9%
of all the cosmetic ingredients in use.
In
1984 the National Research Council (NRC) identified 3,410 cosmetic ingredients
as a potential public health hazard as part of the National Toxicology Program
(NTP) to evaluate the need for chemical toxicity testing. As of mid 2000, almost 2400 of those
chemicals still have not been tested, yet they continued to be in use in
cosmetic products.” 2
First and foremost: We don’t use those
suspicious chemicals commonly found in most commercially available skin care
products!
You
know the ones. Those ingredients with the long names that make most ingredient
lists almost unpronounceable. Things
like: Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, Propylene Glycol, Sodium Laureth Sulfate,
Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Diazolidinyl Urea, Triethanolamine (TEA),
Tetrasodium Etidronate (EDTA), Cocamide
DEA or MEA, Diethanolamine DEA etc., etc.
There are many, many studies and statistics available that show them
to be highly questionable regarding how they impact health in the short or long
term. (For more information and details about
commercial products, chemicals & their effects see the “Benefits of Natural
Skin Care” informational article on this web site.)
Here are
some brief comments on only a few of the many questionable common chemicals:
Propylene Glycol
Propylene Glycol can serve as a humectant - a substance that
helps retain moisture. It keeps the
product and your skin from drying out.
BUT - Did you know that propylene glycol is the main ingredient in some
brands of antifreeze? Did you know that according to the manufacturers’ material safety data sheet, propylene glycol is
implicated in contact dermatitis, kidney damage and liver abnormalities; can
inhibit skin cell growth in human tests and can damage cell membranes causing
rashes, dry skin and surface damage? It
also says that acute effects of propylene glycol may be harmful by inhalation,
ingestion or skin absorption. Acute effects may cause eye irritation, skin
irritation, gastro-intestinal disturbances, nausea, headache, vomiting and central
nervous system depression. In 1991 The American Academy of Dermatologists Inc.
published a clinical review that showed propylene glycol causes a significant
number of reactions and was a primary irritant to the skin in low levels of
concentrations.
“Propylene Glycol – petrochemical, best avoided; absorbs quickly through the skin; strong
irritant; may cause delayed allergic reaction, acne, contact dermatitis.” 2
Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS)
SLS can serve as a detergent or a surfactant. Detergents are chemicals that replace real
soap. Surfactants break the surface
tension of the water. BUT - Did you
know that sodium lauryl sulfate is routinely used in clinical studies to
irritate skin tissue? It corrodes hair
follicles and impairs the ability to grow hair; it enters and maintains
residual levels in the heart, liver, lungs, and brain from skin contact; and it
can damage the immune system. from the
Journal of the American College of Toxicology; Vol2, No.7 1983 Another study titled “Detergent Penetration into Young and Adult Eyes, Research to Prevent
Blindness” by Keith Green, Ph.D., D.Sc., Medical College of Georgia states
that sodium laurel sulfate is rapidly taken up and accumulated by eye tissues,
and retained for up to 5 days; the uptake is greater in younger people; it
denatures proteins of eye tissues - impairing development permanently!
“This very popular ingredient, commonly referred to in the trade
as SLS, is used as a detergent, emulsifier and surfactant in over a thousand
cosmetic products, including shampoos, toothpastes, lotions and creams. Although you’ll find it in many so-called
“natural” cosmetics, it’s not natural – it’s produced synthetically via the
Ziegler process with sulfur trioxide or chlorosulfuric acid and is hardly ever
made from coconut oil (even when the label says it is). It is often combined with diethanolamine
(DEA) or triethanolamine (TEA), either of which can form carcinogenic
nitrosamines in hair care and skin care products. Here are some synthetic
ingredients you should avoid in any cosmetics you buy: cocamide DEA,
cocamidopropyl betaine, sodium laureth sulfate, sodium lauryl sulfate,
TEA-lauryl sulfate” 1
Parabens:
These toxic, allergenic, synthetic chemicals are used to
preserve cosmetics, but they aren’t effective with shampoos or with products
that contain proteins.
PHB’s (p-hydroxybenzoic acid
benzyl esters)
These preservatives are widely used as antimicrobials in
cosmetics (in shampoos, for example) under the names: methyl paraben, propyl paraben, ethyl paraben and butyl
paraben. They’re incompatible with
anionics, nonionics and proteins, and protein-containing products preserved
with them have been found to contain microorganisms, even when the PHBs were
used in high concentrations and the products appeared to be bacteria-free. This means that PHBs can’t be safely used in any skin care product that contains
collagen, elastin, placenta, hydrolyzed animal protein, keratin, etc.
Different PHB esters have differing amounts of antimicrobial
activity, but all are acutely toxic orally.
In lab tests, “higher animals” were more sensitive. It took only 3g/kg of either propyl or butyl
paraben to murder dogs, while 300 g/kg was required to kill rabbits.
PHBs were first used in 1924.
Supplied in the form of a white crystalline powder, they’re odorless,
soluble in water at 20° C and soluble in solvents. Trade names include Nipagin, Nipasol,
Nipakombin, Nipabenzyl and Solbrol.
A suspected carcinogen, this colorless, pungent, irritating
substance is found in many preservatives, such as the hydantoins; it’s also
used as a disinfectant. It’s acutely
toxic when inhaled or swallowed, and 44% of all people whose skin is exposed to
it get a toxic reaction.
At one point, the FDA banned formaldehyde from cosmetics, but it’s
now used in shampoos at concentrations of 0.1% to 0.2%. If its concentration is greater than 0.05%,
the European Economic Community requires that formaldehyde be identified on a
product’s label, but this isn’t required in the U.S. Methanol is sometimes added to formaldehyde at a 15%
concentration to prevent polymerization. Formalin and Formaol are trade names
for formaldehyde.” 1
We use naturally benefiting
products that will be helpful and not harmful!
Things
like: Olive oil, shea butter, sweet almond oil, coconut oil, palm oil, jojoba
oil, cocoa butter, avocado oil, castor oil, apricot kernel oil, evening
primrose oil, wheat germ oil, aloe vera juice, vegetable glycerin, herbal
extracts, pure essential oils, vitamins B, C & E, and more.
But, in case you
aren’t familiar with all of their wonderful benefits, here’s a short list of
some of them:
Olive Oil - is pressed
from the fruit of the olive tree. It has been called the premium cooking oil
since biblical times. This wonderfully nourishing oil also provides skin
benefits. Used as an aid for wound healing, skin moisturizing and fingernail
strengthening for centuries, Japanese scientists claim that olive oil applied
after sunbathing can reduce the sun’s damage.
It has also recently been shown to reduce wrinkles and provide sheen to
the hair. Olive oil is in our hand
& body lotion, salves and is the primary ingredient in our soaps.
Shea Butter – is a butter
like oil pressed from the fruit of the African Karite tree. It has long been
used by Africans, for it’s unsurpassed ability to protect their skin. This
super rich extract provides many remarkable skin benefits. A clinical study in France showed that shea
butter improved the skin of all candidates tested. Skin disorders tested included burns, rashes, sunburn, wrinkles,
dry skin and UV protection. It is the primary oil in all our lotions.
Aloe Vera Juice – Extracted from
the aloe vera plant, it is widely used for skin problems. When applied to the skin it nourishes and
hydrates the cells and promotes healing and new cell growth for wounds, burns,
dry skin, wrinkles etc. Water is almost
always the first ingredient in lotion formulations. It is necessary to use a water-like substance to make lotion the
standard consistency. We use organic
aloe vera juice instead of water in all our lotions for additional skin
benefits.
Palm Oil – is from the
fruit of the African palm oil tree.
This emollient oil makes wonderful oil for soaps. It provides longevity and richness to the
lather, while it moisturizes the skin.
Sweet Almond Oil - is extracted from
almonds. The oil is rich in skin nourishing proteins. Commonly used as a carrier oil for aromatherapy massage oil, It
helps to relieve itching and dry skin.
Coconut Oil – is pressed from the fruit of the
coconut palm tree. (Don’t confuse it with coconut milk.) It is a pure white, unscented oil that
provides natural emollients and moisturizers.
Coconut and Palm oils are high in lauric acid (an essential fatty acid)
that has strong anti-fungal & anti-microbial properties. It adds skin soothing properties to our
lotions and a rich thick lather to our soap & hair soap. (Don’t let the chemical users fool you by saying “from
coconut oil” after their favorite chemical.
This is a marketing tool and does not make the chemical better
for you or good to use – ever!)
Jojoba Oil – (pronounced “hohoba”) is from the
jojoba bean. This liquid oil is also considered a type of wax. Its waxy substance is close to our skin’s
natural collagen making the oil similar to the skin’s natural sebum. This deep moisturizer is great for dry skin,
wrinkles & irritated skin. It’s
been shown to provide sunscreen properties.
Cocoa Butter - is expressed
from the seeds of the cocoa plant. This solid oil is a fine moisturizer &
skin softener.
Avocado Oil - is from the
fruit of the avocado pear tree. Reputed to be a deep moisturizer for dry or
irritated skin, promoting scar healing & reducing age spots.
Castor Oil – is expressed
from the castor bean plant. This thick
oil penetrates quickly leaving a moisture-sealing barrier on the skin to
protect it from moisture loss. It produces a dense thick lather in our hair
soap.
Vegetable Glycerin –
comes from the oils of plants. An
excellent cell moisturizer and humectant, it pulls moisture from the air and
helps the skin retain the moisture it has.
It is a necessity for dry or irritated skin. It is also found in some toothpastes and herbal tinctures. When
reading labels always look for vegetable glycerin not just glycerin. If it doesn’t specify “vegetable” or “plant
based” it is likely synthetic or animal derived. Vegetable glycerin is of a higher quality than synthetic or
animal glycerin and therefore better for your skin.
Herbal Extracts – We use a
specially selected variety of healing herbs in several of our products
including the Herbal Salve, Grime Away Heavy Duty Cleanser, Hair Soap and other
skin balms. All are carefully selected
for their abilities to heal and improve the skin and hair.
Pure Essential Oils
-
We use 100% pure essential oils in our products carefully selected for their
intended use. For example: If you are familiar with tea tree oil or
mellaleuca alternofolia tea tree oil (it’s botanical name) you may be aware of
the Terpinen & Cineole factors publicized in recent years by the Melaleuca Company. They certify their (premium priced) tea tree oil as more than
36% T.(Terpinen) and no greater than 7% C. (cineole) Their product is
named “T36-C7”. (A high % of T & a
low % of C is what makes a premium tea tree oil.) While we don’t use Melaleuca’s
brand of tea tree oil, what we use has been tested in an Australian laboratory
as 38% Terpinen & 3% Cineole. (T38-C3)
Due to customer preferences we also use
fragrance oils to provide those special scents not naturally
available. We use premium quality oils
that are approved for skin and aromatherapy applications. Of course, all essential and fragrance oils are clearly labeled as such.
Vitamins B, C & E
– are known for their healing properties and useful as anti-bacterial
agents.
And many more equally beneficial ingredients - We could continue
on about many others, but you get the idea.
References
1.
What’s In Your Cosmetics? by
Aubrey Hampton 1995
2.
Dying To Look Good by Christine Hoza Farlow, D.C. 2001
3.
Home Brewed Cancer by Network
News and Publications 1997
4.
Journal of the American
College of Toxicology; Vol2, No.7 1983
5.
Detergent Penetration into
Young and Adult Eyes, Research to Prevent Blindness by Keith Green, Ph.D.,
D.Sc., Medical College of Georgia